Estimated at US$ 21.4 million in 2018, the global market for cosmetic ingredients is expected to reach US$ 26.8 billion in 2020. This rapid growth in value is boosted by the development of emerging markets, particularly in Asia, but also by a higher valuation of ingredients whose properties are substantiated by stronger scientific background and whose origin is more and more natural.
Due to the strong demand from consumers and to new regulations, sustainability and naturalness should once again top discussions and trends at the show.
Upcycling trend
Among the sustainable solutions, upcyling seems to be on the rise. Biolie, for instance, has built its image on this principle: it offers a complete enzymatic cracking of the plant material originating from the waste of other industries such as off-sized vegetables or seeds which have lost their ability to germinate. In line with this upcycling principle, the Italian company Akott offers the Italine range from co-products of the food industry, the BioNap exploits co-products from Mediterranean agriculture and Expanscience boasts 64% of upcycled products in its catalogue of actives.
Biodegradable polymers
Polymer manufacturers are also following suit by improving the biodegradability of their materials. Initially originating from organic synthesis, polymers tend to become bio-sourced. “We strive to meet customer demand. For the past 10 years, Covestro has been focusing on the issue, resulting in the launch of Baycusan Eco E 1000 which contains 58% bio-based carbon and whose hair care performances are similar to traditional film-formers”, explained Mélanie Dick, Marketing Manager, Cosmetics at Covestro.
For its part, Roelmi HPC proposes alternatives to plastic microbeads with its Tselus-Bi Feel range based on corn starch and polyvinyl alcohol. Seppic has invested in the Ecovia start-up, specialised in fermented biopolymers.
Among the other trends to follow at in-cosmetics 2019: biotechnologies, marine ingredients, CBD, well-being and emotional benefits ...
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Cosmetic ingredients 2019 
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